The author at the Appalachian Trail signpost at northern end of 100 Mile Wilderness (2006)
So you want to thru-hike the Appalachian Trail southbound? Well below are 7 must-have items I recommend for starting the Appalachian Trail southbound thru-hike, and specifically for hiking the notorious 100 Mile Wilderness, which can punish to would-be thru-hiker.
Each year, a couple thousand people start their thru-hike at Springer Mountain, Georgia and start hiking north. A smaller number, often in the hundreds, begin at Mt. Katahdin, Maine and start hiking south. These are the Southbounders.
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I have published my general tips for successfully thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail based on my experience. However, hiking southbound does present unique terrain and conditions in the 100 Mile Wilderness for which you’ll need to be prepared. I successfully thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail southbound from Maine to Georgia, and I discovered first hand some of the gear you must have for the first hundred miles beginning in Maine. Here are my suggested must have items.
Ben’s 95% DEET bug spray will protect you in the 100 Mile WIlderness. Available at REI.com
1. Bug Spray (95-100% DEET) – When you start the southbound thru-hike of the Appalachain Trail, you will spend your first week or so in the notorious 100 Mile Wilderness. Chances are you’ll be starting your hike somewhere around June 1 during the summer, which means the forest floor of the 100 Mile Wilderness will likely be soggy and full of mosquitoes and black flies. Much of the 100 Mile Wilderness traverses swamp land, and I found that that the bugs can be absolutely merciless in these lowlands.
When I was hiking in Maine, I met a grown man crying in the woods. The bugs were so pestering and painful that he simply wasn’t having any fun and wanted to get the heck out. Here’s the full story of the man tormented by mosquitoes on the Appalachian Trail. This guy was a little south of 100 Mile Wilderness when I met him and was looking for a way out of the woods. But guess what, there aren’t many exits in the 100 Mile Wilderness, so escape isn’t often an option. I managed in part because of my powerful DEET bug spray. Sure the spray took the paint of my watch, but it kept the bugs away as well. DEET has it’s pros and cons, so determine for yourself if you want to risk the health effects of DEET.
Not all bug spray’s are created equal. Here’s the bug spray that worked for me:
Ben’s 95% DEET Bug Spray @ REI
2. Baseball Cap, Head Net, and Light Gloves – I can’t underestimate how bad the bugs really can be in Maine. Unless you happen to be reading this post in a canoe in the steamy backwoods of the Louisiana bogs, you likely can’t imaging just how bad the mosquitoes can be in Maine. They are maddening. And with so few southbound hikers in the 100 Mile Wilderness in June, there aren’t a whole lot of people for mosquitoes to pester. If they find you, they will follow you for miles.
In these situations, you’ll be glad to have a head net to cover your face. Be sure to wear the head net over a ball cap so you have some space between your face and the mesh, otherwise it’s useless as mosquitoes and black flies will find you’re your skin.
Also, gloves. Gloves? You think I’m crazy right. Who needs gloves in June? I didn’t have gloves at the start of my hike. I wore thick socks over my hands to keep the bugs from ravaging my fleshy hands. Take a pair of lightweight gloves that will keep the mosquitoes and blackflies off your knuckles.
HIKER HACK: If you are heading to the 100 Mile Wilderness, you have to gear up. I highly recommend becoming a member of the REI.com Co-Op to take advantage of the 10% rebate on backpacking gear.
3. Crocs (water shoes) – I consider these lightweight shoes an absolute must-have for the southbound Appalachian Trail thru-hiker for a variety of reasons. First, when you start your thru-hike at Mt. Katahdin, you will have to cross many rivers and bogs as you travel through the 100 Mile Wilderness to Monson, Maine. If you are hiking the 100 Mile Wilderness, make sure you read my cautionary tales about 5 Things that could kill you in the 100 Mile Wilderness.
Northbounders beginning at Springer don’t have to deal with these obstacles. Some of the creeks and rivers you’ll cross could be chest deep because of all the snowmelt rushing off the mountains. Even the Appalachian Trail itself was flooded, and it could be for you as well. I had some crummy flip-flops for the 100 Mile Wilderness and they turned out to be both useless and dangerous. When crossing the rivers, my feet slipped and slid among the rocky river bottoms, and I lost one flip flop in some rapids. I met hikers with Crocs and they worked very well. Your boots will inevitably get wet in the 100 Mile Wilderness, and some hikers I met spent a couple hours in their Crocs hiking each day to let their boots and socks dry out.
4. Hiking Poles – Maine is full of rocks, roots, flooded trail, and bog bridges through the swamp. These bog bridges can be treacherous and require a great deal of balance. Imaging trees cut in lengthwise into two pieces and stacked end to end for hundreds and hundreds of years. Imagine balancing with a 40 pound pack on your back while walking across these foot bridges, and then image that you slip and go feet first, or worse yet, pack first, into the muddy bog. What a way to ruin a day! Want to read more about the foot bridges: check out my account from my 5th Day in the 100 Mile Wilderness.
Hiking poles can help prevent this disaster. Some hikers might discourage the use of poles, and indeed on a north bound hike I don’t think they are necessary at the start. But for the 100 Mile Wilderness, while you are just getting used to hiking the AT and balancing with a heavy pack on your back, I suggest taking the poles. They saved me more than once from an accident like that described above, and I was certainly glad to have them on the bog bridges, steep climbs, and steep descents.
5. A Watch (Or electronics that tell time) – Have you ever been to Maine in the summer? If not, be prepared for lots of daylight. That far north on the globe as the calendar approaches the Summer Solstice, the sun comes up before 5am and goes down after 930pm. Long days are great for hiking since it gives you lots of time to get started and rest throughout the day. But they can also be confusing if you’re used to life elsewhere.
I started the trail with a watch but lost it a day or two into my hike. Not knowing the time had a number of negative consequences in those early days of the hike, mainly that I didn’t know how fast I was moving, how long I had been hiking, and therefore often didn’t know how much further ahead a particular destination (like a shelter) might be. In the early days and in all of the obstacles of the 100 Mile Wilderness, it’s hard to know how much ground you cover and what pace you keep. A watch helps you make better sense of your progress, and I definitely wouldn’t leave for the 100 Mile Wilderness without one.
6. A Backpack Liner and a Bag for Dry Clothes – When thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail through the 100 Mile Wilderness in June, you will almost always be wet. Either wet from rain, wet from crossing a river, or we from sweat. But after a long day of hiking, when you’re wet from rain, river, or sweat, nothing beats putting on a pair of dry clothes, a dry sleeping bag, and a dry tent. Do whatever you can to keep your gear dry. This advice would of course go for a northbound hiker as well, but the southbound hiker has unique challenges in that they are faced with a lot more water in the first couple of weeks of the trail.
Put a pair of clothes in a large Ziplock freezer bag and only take them out of the pack at the end of the day. Put them back in the bag in the morning. These are your dry clothes, and they are never to get wet. For everything else in your pack, consider keeping everything in durable garbage bags. Garbage bags are light weight and relatively strong, and they can help you keep your sleeping bag, tent, and other items dry, making your 100 Mile Wilderness hike a lot more comfortable.
7. 10 Days of Food – Hikers beginning the trail at Springer Mountain have a number of options for resupply and equipment near the beginning of the Appalachian Trail. The AT runs right through an outfitter at Neel’s Gap where you can buy equipment and food. Starting the AT in the north is a different story, as there is very little option for food resupply in the 100 Mile Wilderness. Most sources will tell you to pack 10 days of food. I agree completely. The 100 Mile Wilderness is tough, and unless you’re a particularly seasoned hiker, you may have trouble averaging more than 10 miles a day. Pack for 10 days in the 100 Mile Wilderness, and aim to get to Monson in 9, giving you a day of food to spare.
By the way, before my trip, I was one of the rare southbound thru-hikers that cached food in the 100 Mile Wilderness. It was at Jo Mary Road, which can be found on a map to cross the Appalachian Trail. It can be done, but I don’t actually advise it because a lot could have gone wrong. A bear could have gotten to the cache, another hiker, who knows. If it hadn’t been hanging in that tree when I cross Jo Mary Road, then I’d have been in big trouble.
When considering a southbound thru-hike, recognize that there are some differences relative to the northbound thru-hike experience. Take into account the broad advice offered by past thru-hikers and experts, but be sure that you are also seeking out advice specific to the southbound thru-hike, especially the first couple hundred miles of it. After that, the peculiarities of north vs. south become much less intense.
Do you know of must have items for the 100 Mile Wilderness at the start of a southbound hike? Have questions about some gear your considering taking? Let me know in the comments.
Hey mark! i have a question, kind of a broad one, but i would like to know an even more in depth list of things i should have to hike from maine to georgia, all the way through. From backpack to tent to pad to how to get food along the way, what is everything you brought to complete the trail? it would be a huge help, as i am planning to start in june. thanks! you can email me at jonahpj@yahoo.com
– Jonah Johnson
Thanks for the post, Jonah. Check out this checklist: http://adventurepossible.com/maine-hiking/backpacking-gear-checklist-for-the-100-mile-wilderness/
Hi mark,
I recently have discovered that I will be commitment free come september first, or possibly the middle of august. I would really like to do a long trek, and I know the PCT would not be a good option because of early snowfall around october in the sierras. Is this the case on the app? What are your thoughts about starting the southbound trail in late august, first week of september?
Cheers,
Kelli
Hi Kelli,
An August/ September start date would be considered a late start for an end-to-end southbound thru-hike. If you hiked the entire length of the trail in about five months (average), then you would finish the hike in January/February. Totally doable, but you would be dealing with colder temps and likely greater amounts of snowfall than most SOBO hikers experience in Tennessee, North Carolina, and Georgia. Totally doable, but you’ll need to be extra cautious about the cold temps. And prepare for loneliness in the last couple months.
Hey Mark,
My names Dylan and I was wondering what tips and advice you have for the southbound through hike. I plan on doing the through hike in about two years and could use all the advice I can get before I go. Also do you know where I can talk to more southbound hikers about their experience?
Thanks,
Dylan
Hi Dylan, I’m not sure of a venue to connect with other SoBo’s, though I am one and happy to catch up sometime if you would like. As you prepare over the next couple of years, I encourage you to hit the AT or other trails on short spurts to gain some exposure to the backpacking lifestyle that becomes you when hiking the AT. The best advice I think I can provide is to suggest that you don’t let life get in the way of the thru-hike ambition.
Mark,
I’m thinking of a southbound thru hike around July. Would the bugs and mosquitos be much of a problem still? Also, are dogs allowed on the 100 mile wilderness? I have a Siberian Husky that loves to hike and swim.
Hi Josh, mosquitoes will likely still be a problem in July. I would certainly be prepared for them, and then maybe you’ll get lucky and they won’t be so bad.
Hikers often take their dogs through the 100 Mile Wilderness, but dogs aren’t allowed in Baxter State Park. Water levels may still by high in July, so creek crossings could still be sketchy, with rushing white water and potentially overhead, so hopefully your dog is a good swimmer.
Hi Mark,
I am planning to hike the 100 mile wilderness section (only) with my dog in August. If dogs are not permitted in Baxter State Park, can you suggest how this can be accomplished ?
Hi Nan,
I’m pretty sure the 100 Mile Wilderness does not actually stretch into Baxter State Park, and the northern terminus of the 100 Mile Wilderness is near Abol Bridge.
Given that, here’s how I would do your trip. If you and the dog could get to Monson, Maine, then you could hook up with a shuttle service to give you a ride to the trail head on the north side of the 100 mile wilderness at Abol Bridge. At Abol Bridge, you are just outside of Baxter State Park, which lies to the north of Abol Bridge. From here, you could enter the 100 Mile Wilderness and hike south back into Monson, ME. Hiking back south to Monson will be a little less pressure versus trying to time a shuttle pickup at Abol Bridge.
If you are trying to add a climb up Mt. Katahdin to your section hike, then you have a different challenge with the dog, as Mt. Katahdin is in Baxter State Park where they don’t allow dogs. If this is your aim, then you’ll need to board the dog for a day, which may mean a couple more shuttle rides for you.
For the facts, you should check in with Shaw’s Boarding House. I bet they have dealt with hiker / dog / 100 mile wilderness planning.
Also, I hope your dog can carry his own food, as that would be a lot of burden on your shoulders. 10 days of human food + 10 days of dog food.
Good luck with the hike next summer.
Thank you Mark !
Hello Mark,
Is there any difference in degree of physical difficulty between going North to South or South to North through the 100 mile wilderness.
Thank you
Mark
Hi Mark,
I don’t think there would be a discernible difference in physical difficulty when going north or south in the 100 Mile Wilderness. You will have to climb the same mountains and cross the same rivers and swamps.
The good thing about heading north is that you can finish atop Mt. Katahdin, which isn’t in the 100 Mile Wilderness but is a pretty cool way to finish a trip.
The potential challenge heading north is that you may be hiking to a deadline to meet a shuttle to take you back to Monson or wherever you may be staying.
Heading south may give you more flexibility to hike slower or faster. You can get dropped off in Baxter State Park at the trail head and then hike south at your own pace, walking right into Monson, Maine when you please.
Good luck on the trip.
heading south offers you the chance to get your hiking legs under you before getting to the major elevation changes. the first 50/60
miles are relatively easy if you begin your hike in Milleknockett.
tobin
Of the outdoor stores in Maine, (LL Bean, Cabellas, Kittery Trading Post, etc…) where does a beginner go for good quality without breaking the bank?
Hi Steven, I don’t shop locally in Maine, since I’m from North Carolina, but I do shop at Cabelas for hunting gear and LL Bean for clothing. For backpacking, paddling, and cycling gear, I shop at REI or on REI.com. Hope this helps.
If you are just getting started, be sure to check out our Backpacking Gear Checklist for the 100 Mile Wilderness in Maine.
There are links there to gear we recommend that would be typical for a non-winter backpacking trip in Maine.
Hi Mark,
Great write-up! My brother and I are in the beginning stages of planning a backpacking/camping trip through the 100 mile wilderness for next year. We are trying to determine our best options, as we may only be able to take a week off work (which would mean about 7-8 days of trail time). Would it be possible to do the 100 mile wilderness in this amount of time, or would you recommend doing it as a section hike, and schedule with a shuttle service (doing only half in this trip and half in a second one)?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Glen,
7-8 days on the trail is totally doable, though it could be a really tough 7-8 days depending on your level of fitness and preparedness. Many Appalachian Trail thru-hikers that have hiked from Georgia to Maine will average 20 miles or more per day heading through the 100 Mile Wilderness, and they will knock out the 100 Mile Wilderness in 4-5 days. So what you’re attempting is definitely doable if you’re in good shape, pack light, and plan well.
Let me know if you have other questions. Good luck!
Hi Mark,
Thanks for your articles. I want to do a SOBO thru-hike, but I am completely new to hiking, although I have done road marches in the military in the past. What tips do you have for a true first timer taking on this task,
Thanks for the comment. When I thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail, I had not done much backpacking at all. It was a trial by fire, and I had to learn quick. I put a lot of my learnings in the Appalachian Trail section of this website, so check that out. My one piece of advice though is to allow ample time and money for the hike. Rushing or too few rest days (‘zeroes’) leads to injuries, and running out of money means going home. Best of luck on your thru-hike. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I started my south bound hike of the 100 mile wilderness by submitting Kathadin the first day
Started on September 16 and finished up in Monsonn at noon on the 25th. The weather was absolutely perfect for hiking and…NO flies or mosquitoes.
Now, I did walk through about 3 hrs. of light rain that last morning but was under roof at Shaw’s that night when it started to pour, and it didn’t stop for the next 2 days.
Still, a mid-Sept. start is a great time to do the hundred mile wilderness.
Thanks for sharing. Hope you had a blast.
Thanks for sharing, Johnny. Also glad to hear you didn’t suffer the mosquitoes or black flies.
We were so prepared for everything except the verbal abuse from Phil Peppin after being lost for hours … Whatever you do – unless you enjoy getting lost, and being verbally assaulted by the owner with language I will not repeat here, do not stay at the 100 Mile Wilderness Outfitters in Monson Maine. I took my 73 year old (very fit) mother to section hike the trail where her father surveyed in 1925, it was supposed to be the trip of her lifetime – instead it turned out to almost cause her to collapse, we arrived at the cabins and unloaded into one of the larger areas that we paid for almost 6 months prior – it smelled like cat pee, but we were willing to overlook so that she could have the experience. The owner Phil decided to not be there when we arrived so we were greeted by a 20 something shirtless boy chopping kindling, we thought we would do a short 2 hour hike to see the area. Not far, but to see the nearby lake. The young man (even though we said we were not familiar with the area) said take “Woody” the camp dog he takes hikers to the lake all the time. Yes we should not have trusted him, but we did, we were lost for 5 hours and no one came looking for us. We ended up having to hike 8 miles, at 6 I told my mom to stop that I would find the camp and come pick her and my sister up – she was not doing well. I ran 2 miles with “Woody” to find the cabins, which I luckily did. When we arrived this Phil who I thought might be concerned we had been gone for so long – started yelling at me with the F word and other horrible insults about how I took his dog without telling him and that I needed to give him time to “cool” down. At which time I explained we had just been lost for hours and he didn’t care – I told him I had to drive and find my sister and mother and that we would not be staying. By the time I returned he’d left a refund in cash on my bed like I was paid for the horror of him accosting me. It felt like a payoff so I just gathered my stuff left the money and took my sister and my mother who was pale and shaking and we left. The site will be fine I am sure for thru hikers who need a spot to crash, but unless your a “real hiker” and male – don’t expect to be treated respect or taken care of. So incredibly sad and let down…
Thanks for the tips. I presume going north would present the same problems in the early summer months. Any idea if planning to finish in Main around september would be any less problematic with bugs/mosquitoes etc. I suppose the sensible answer is buy the 95% Deet regardless and be prepared.
Hi Paul, thanks on the various comments around the site.
I think bugs in the 100 Mile Wilderness are less of a problem in September, though carrying a little DEET could be great insurance.
Mark
How do SOBO hikers start the trail? Is hiking up and down Mt. Katahdin the first day of the trip part of the experience? Can a hiker achieve “thru-hiker” status by starting at the top and only going down?
A thru-hiker can achieve thru-hiker status starting at Katahdin and hiking southbound. ‘Status’ is a bit formal, though I think the ATC has started handing out some paper certificates. Each hikes his own hike, and the adventure isn’t worth the paper but worth the journey. In my view, no matter where you start, north, south or flip flop, if you become a 2,000 miler in a year you can recognize yourself a thru-hiker.
To answer your other question, SOBO hikers start the trail just like NOBOs, but they travel to Katahdin and not Springer.
Hi Mark, what do you think about the idea of carrying an extra 3 pounds of one man inflatable raft for the first part of the trip, and 1 pound of rope. you would then leave your pack in the inflated raft on one side of the stream, cross the stream holding on to the end of the rope, then pull the raft across when you reach the other side?
after passing the Hundred Mile wilderness you could either discard the raft or keep it as waterproof material. Of course you would discard it in an appropriate manor.